Seamstress Math

Hello my lovelies!

A seamstress I know hangs up the phone and sighs with exasperation.  A newly engaged bride named Melody has called to find out how much it will cost to alter a wedding gown.  She does not know what kinds of alterations it needs, how many layers it has to hem, or if it needs a bustle. A bustle is a technical term for something in a hedge row… Just kidding. It’s when you button up the train of a gown so it hangs even with the rest of the dress. A train is something that people take to get somewhere else. It’s also the long part of the gown that all the drunk people at the wedding are going to step on after a bride drags it down the aisle. This bride on the phone does not have her shoes yet and she has no idea when she can bring the dress in for a fitting.  But she wants a price.   How much?  My friend wiggles her fingers in a mystical way at the phone, now back in its cradle, as if she is clairvoyant.  Hmmm… she muses… somewhere between $80-120? $400? $50? Who the hell knows…

          “Don’t people GET it? Has NO ONE ever gone to a math class??” she asks for the thousandth time this month, “We need all the variables before we can do the problem!” 

As a person who calls a ruler a “stick with numbers,” I confess that Math has never been my strong suite.  In fact, if I had ever suspected how much math I would wind up having to use on a daily basis, I would have tried to pay more attention to things like compound fractions and inverted denominations while the teachers were droning on about them.  I just snuck storybooks of myths and legends under my desk and assumed that in my future life I would never need to find a coefficient—which I assume is something efficient—though I probably need one now!  Alas, math is everywhere. It sneaks up on you.  I said this once to my friend Steve, who is a math teacher in western Massachusetts, and he said “Please come into my class and tell my students that!!  Please!  They have no idea!”

I remember back to fifth grade, when we were asked to calculate how far Mr. Smith would drive if he was traveling East on a Tuesday at 55 miles per hour and drove for two and a half hours, I was always less interested in the pertinent information—( 55 x 2.5) and much more intrigued by the impertinent.  Why was he traveling East? Why Tuesday? Did Mrs. Smith pack him a lunch—like grandma’s basket of pepper and egg sandwiches—so that he would not have to stop at some revolting fast-food place? Did he really have some place important to go to or was he just doing this to drive us fifth graders mad?  I never got the hang of word problems and I’m not even all that good at the most basic calculations.  In college, when I was working at a fabric store called Piece Goods, I actually concluded that a customer would need about 76 yards of fabric to make a set of kitchen curtains.  She believed me without question, even though the average window is not more than one yard wide and two yards long.   We started wondering how many bolts, at ten yards a bolt, we would have to order.  Luckily, a co-worker named Georgia with a rich, mahogany laugh, interrupted us with the shout, “Girl!  That’s exactly the right amount of fabric…if-ing you planning to slipcover Rhode Island with the leftovers!”

“How much?” is the question we are asked over and over again.  Often the answers are arbitrary, based on a strange alchemy between how much effort something requires and how much we think the customer is willing to value that effort in actual dollars.  The use of money as a translation for talent, time, and energy is imperfect.  When I hear from mathematician friends that numbers get very flexible the more sophisticated the equations get, I feel confused.  Numbers are numbers. Facts are facts.  Well, apparently not at the highest levels—which includes Advanced Number Theory, the United States Government, and certain tailoring shops, where something called "a skinch" (a skinny inch) is an accepted measurement.

We use basic math, particularly geometry, for an average of nine hours a day.  The life of a seamstress consists mostly of word problems such as:

1.     “Ruthie Chooch sees a blouse on sale at T.J. Maxx for $12 and decides to buy it, regardless of the fact that it is a size 2 and she is a most curvatious and voluptuous  size 18. She loves the design so much—she decides to buy two blouses in the hopes that a local seamstress can sew them together somehow.   How many blouses, at 12 dollars a pop, will it take to slipcover Ms. Chooch’s bazoombas?  Keep in mind, she is planning to wear this garment to church.   And how much will this project cost in the end, after the frazzled seamstress spends four days on it?

a.      The GDP of a tiny country

b.     Think of a number, any number

c.      Nothing, as Ms. Chooch will never come pick it up.

2.     Given that this shop pays ( x in rent + y in utilities +z in employee salaries), how much should we charge to hem a pair of pants?

a.      $500

b.     $10

c.      We should do them for free, like granny did.

3.     Mrs. Joysmacker swoops into the shop and slaps twenty beautiful shawls down on the table.  They are hand-crocheted cotton triangles in vibrant organic dyes from some third-world country where people still know how to make such loveliness.  Mrs. Joysmacker wants them hacked into pieces and reassembled as a kind of sweater/coat for herself that is fringed all over.   How many triangles will be destroyed to make a large rectangle to cover her back, two thinner rectangles to cover her front, and two cylinders for arms? 

a.      19.5

b.     47

c.      We could not bear to count

4.     Mrs. Muffincrusher has purchased some curtains on sale.  In her eagerness to save herself a buck, she neglects to realize that these panels were 84” long.  She now needs them shortened to 64.”  The clever seamstress now

a.      Chops twenty inches off the bottom of each panel and calls it a day

b.     Chops anything from 19-22 inches off each panel, none of which turn out to be 84” to begin with

c.      Sweats the details VERY carefully, knowing that the dim eyesight that overlooked the numeral 84 on the package will not fail to notice a hairs’ breath of  difference from ten yards away and that Mrs. Muffincrusher will be back to plague her at least sixteen times until she gets it right.

5.     Bertha Birkenstock’s son Bobby is a very busy boy scout.  He has earned quite a few patches recently and needs twelve new ones stitched onto his sash.  If we normally charge between 2-4 dollars a patch (depending on size and whether or not there are pockets involved), how much will Bobby’s achievements in knot-tying and whittling cost Bertha Birkenstock?

a.      $24-48 because each patch will be a different color and we will have to change threads at least 47 times and break three needles in the process

b.     $12 because Bertha  Birkenstock will moan and groan otherwise

c.      Why the hell don’t boy scouts get a patch for learning how to sew on their own damn patches?

These are just a few of the problems that we run into on a daily basis.  Let’s not even get into the kind of geometry it takes to fit a man with no bum who wants to wear his pants tight! As a carpenter in cloth, I’ve come a long way in my math skills.  “A long way,” I said, not “far.”  The two are very different things, as I hope you have learned by now.  Most days, I remember to make sure the tape is starting with the numeral “1” when I take someone’s measurements. And I always measure more than once.  I hate it when I cut something three times and then it’s still too short!

Be well, be kind, and do good work!

Nancy

The Gift of Being a Misfit

Hello my lovelies!

A handsome, blue-eyed, off-the-rack sort of guy, meeting me for the first time said “what is it you do, exactly? What is altering clothing?”  (the altered universe) He was a writer, so I said “I edit clothing. I take out what isn’t needed here and add more there.” He nodded in a bemused way. “Is there enough work in that? How many people have clothes that don’t fit?”  I peered at him incredulously.  At 6’1” with a slim, athletic build, he might have never once in his life have had the experience of things not fitting.  Not for him the anxious bargaining, writhing and twisting while lying down to get a pair of jeans over his hips.  Hmmm...  It might never have occurred to him that modern mass-produced clothing does not actually fit the masses.  I literally, had never met anyone like him before.   “I don’t mean to be rude,” he said, which is something I notice people saying just before they are about to say something rude, “but what is it you do all day?”  The answer is something I have been considering ever since.  

This blog is an attempt to figure out exactly what it is I do all day, while other people are saving the rainforest, researching climate change, curing cancer, feeding the hungry…. Me? I’m just trying to make your damn pants fit so they don’t ride up your ass and make you grumpy. It’s not really as noble as rescuing puppies from a burning building but there you go.  There’s still a need for it.  I never set out to fix the world one pair of pants at a time or be, like Saint Therese, a “saint in little ways.”  No, I had grander plans for myself, though I have since forgotten what they were. I think I wanted to be a veterinarian or maybe  a professional roller-skater. At fifty, I have been through a thing or two and I have reached what Plato called the “Philosopher’s Age.”  I see now that someone whose pants are not bunching up and chafing his or her butt cheeks might actually be a kinder, more enlightened human being--one who might support Heifer International or donate to public radio during one of their pledge drives.   And perhaps it is up to that kinder, more pleasant, less chafed individual to save the world, not me.  Such is my gift to humanity. 

Like Eve, I went into clothing design for moral reasons.  At nine years of age, I inherited a box of Barbie dolls from a neighbor. I didn’t need to eat any apples to observe they were naked.  Seriously dismayed to learn that Mattel did not sell pious garments for these hard-boiled hussies, I began to fashion little nun habits for them out of toilet paper.  In no time at all, they were the Sisters of the Immaculate Septic System, complete with rosaries made out of dental floss and my sisters and I could play “the Sound of Music to our heart’s content.   In fifth grade, I learned I could escape my mother’s horrible healthy lunches (peanut butter and bean sprout sandwiches on homemade wheat bread strong enough to shingle houses) by trading homemade doll clothes for junk food.  I once commanded the exorbitant fee of a whole bag of cheetos for a carefully tailored blue doll coat that took me three days to make. In High School, I took to sewing in self-defense when I realized my bum was not respecting the narrow imaginations of 1980’s clothing designers.  I had to figure out how to tailor my clothes so it would not look like I was shoplifting seat cushions.  When others found out I could do this, word spread to the anguished and my ministry began.

Here I am today, more than 30 years later: Still clothing the naked, disguising the buttocks, and sewing for food--though now I really LIKE bean sprouts! For an average of forty to sixty hours a week, people present me with their problems and I attempt to fix them.  Doctors hear stories of pain; Lawyers hear stories of personal injury; I get to hear about how gremlins snuck into your closet at night and shrank all your clothes.   Time and time again, I am told that being a seamstress is “old-fashioned” that I am part of a dying breed.  That may be so but it’s not because our clothes are fitting any better.  And since most of us still wear clothes, there is an overwhelming need for people to take up this craft.  Thanks to my work, I get to see close up how most of us are not a perfect fit.  Having felt like a misfit in one way or another for most of my life, this is tremendously healing.  I am not alone. You, dear reader, aren’t either.  None of us are.  We are each slightly different, as unique as snowflakes--flakes with one leg longer, one shoulder higher, a bum with enough mass to have its own planetary magnetism,  or no bum at all, we are all in danger of being Magnificent when our clothes and lives begin to fit us better. 

It’s a gift to be a misfit.  I see it time and time again in the fitting room.  Being a misfit helps create mindfulness.  A person’s “flaw” becomes her beauty when put in the right setting.  Attention must be paid, accommodations made, reality faced.  These are good things for us humans to do.  They are the gateways to humility, compassion, and gratitude.  And Laughter, which makes everything fit better! It sometimes takes a bit of work to make things fit. That’s ok.  We deserve it.  

Be well, and do good work.

Yours aye,

Nancy

Prayer of a Seamstress

Dear Lord,

We dedicate this work to you. 

We ask you to bless our hands and use them as your own, even as they ache from heavy scissors and sting from needles and pins.

May our presence at work today be a blessing on others and ourselves, though disagreeable customers may fret or nag, and leave our tiny dressing room with choking clouds of perfume, coffee breath, or last night’s bean burrito.

Teach us to forgive those who give us half a day to redesign an entire wedding dress that they knew four months ago did not fit.

Grant us your patience, Lord, when people grumble at how much we charge and blithely inform us that their dead grandmother used to do it for nothing.

We surrender to you our striving to make both sleeves come out even, asking only that the bobbin not run out two inches from the end of the seam.

Save us, we pray, from the drudgery of dungarees that need to be hemmed a quarter of an inch and deliver us from the evils of hemming the same damn leg twice and neglecting to do the other one.

Protect us from the Dance Mothers, Mothers of the Brides, or any other imposing female who needs to give us the full, entire, exhaustive, repetitive history of the provenance of her daughter’s gown. 

May we measure as many times as it takes but cut only once.  May we trust our eyes, not our ears, when someone insists he still has the 29 inch waist he had twenty years ago.  May we hem and taper, taper and hem, until every young, male, bald ankle reveals its glory to the world yet may we encourage anyone over fifty to stick to cuffs.

Thank you for your faith in us that such a glorious mission—that men no more may roam your creation with broken zippers and missing buttons, nor any woman  wear jeans that refuse to accommodate her entire ass—has been placed in our hands.  We are humbly grateful for our many blessings.               Amen